White Colheita 2009
The 2009 Colheita White Port is a blend of Viosinho (30%), Rabigato (24%), Gouveio (18%), Malvasia Fina (18%) and Moscatel Galego (10%) from the winery’s Quinta da Trovisca. It was bottled with 104 grams of residual sugar and a long cork in May 2023. Dark, sweet and burnished, this is a big mouthful from a big vintage that seems to do what Colheitas are supposed to do: reflect the vintage. It’s a sexy blockbuster for a young Colheita, although it’s not terribly complex. In terms of depth and richness, however, it seems older than its bottling date would suggest, and it projects big flavors, including caramelized apricots. The fruit is certainly younger and less nuanced than on the older ones, but the richness compensates well. It sure isn’t your light and easy White Port. There’s a whiff of brandy in the background, but nothing disturbing. In many respects, this seems more like a Tawny, just not as dark or as rich. It is pretty fine for that hedonistic experience, but some may prefer a more restrained version. Plenty of others will swoon for this.